A T-shirt may look straight on the cutting table but develop a twisted side seam after washing. The side seam can move towards the front or back, and the bottom hem may no longer sit squarely across the body. This problem is commonly known as garment spirality.
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Garment spirality testing measures the lateral rotation that develops after a specified laundering procedure. |
Spirality is an important appearance and quality issue, particularly in knitted garments such as T-shirts, polo shirts and sweatshirts. It can also occur in woven garments. A controlled test helps manufacturers evaluate how much twisting develops after a specified laundering procedure.
What Is Garment Spirality?
Garment spirality, sometimes called garment torque or twisting, is the lateral rotation or displacement between garment panels that becomes visible after laundering.
In a knitted T-shirt, the side seam may no longer remain in its original vertical position. It can rotate towards the front or back of the garment. The hem may also appear diagonal instead of following the expected alignment.
Garment Spirality vs Fabric Skewness
These terms are related, but they describe different stages of the quality problem.
| Parameter | Meaning | When to investigate |
|---|---|---|
| Fabric skewness | The fabric courses or filling direction are not aligned at the expected angle to the fabric edge or wale direction. | During fabric inspection and before cutting. |
| Garment spirality | The garment panels or side seams rotate relative to their original alignment, especially after laundering. | During garment testing and after washing. |
| Garment measurement distortion | Length, width or other garment dimensions change. | During dimensional stability and measurement checks. |
A fabric can show skew before cutting, while a garment can also develop additional twisting after washing. Therefore, fabric inspection alone is not always sufficient to evaluate the final garment appearance.
Which Standard Is Used for Garment Spirality?
The ISO 16322 series covers the determination of spirality after laundering.
- ISO 16322-2:2021: Determination of spirality after laundering in woven and knitted fabrics.
- ISO 16322-3:2021: Determination of spirality after laundering in woven and knitted garments.
ISO 16322-3:2021 is the relevant part when the test specimen is a finished garment. The standard describes procedures for measuring spirality after domestic laundering. Different procedures may produce results that are not directly comparable.
Why Do Garments Twist After Washing?
Garment twisting can originate from yarn characteristics, knitting construction, fabric processing and garment manufacturing. Several factors may work together.
1. Yarn Twist and Torque
Spun yarn contains twist. Depending on yarn construction and twist balance, residual torque may contribute to fabric distortion when internal stresses are released during wet processing or laundering.
2. Knitting Machine Conditions
Uneven yarn feeding, machine setting differences, tension variation and construction-related factors may contribute to fabric skew or unstable fabric geometry.
3. Fabric Relaxation
Fabric that is not sufficiently relaxed before spreading and cutting may change its shape later. The relaxation requirement depends on fabric construction, elastane content, processing route and material behaviour.
4. Wet Processing and Compaction
Wet processing, drying, compaction and fabric handling can influence the final geometry of knitted fabric. A process that stabilizes one construction may not be suitable for another.
5. Cutting and Panel Orientation
Incorrect fabric alignment, careless spreading, unsuitable panel orientation or cutting on a distorted lay may transfer the problem into the garment.
6. Garment Construction
Panel matching, sewing tension and construction differences may affect the final appearance. These should be investigated alongside the fabric rather than treated as the only possible cause.
ISO 16322-3:2021 — General Test Principle
The garment is prepared and marked before laundering. It is then washed and dried according to the agreed procedure. After the laundering process, the specimen is reconditioned and the displacement is measured.
The standard includes different marking procedures, including a within-panel approach and a panel-side approach. The appropriate procedure should be selected according to the garment construction and agreed test requirement.
General laboratory workflow
- Select representative finished garments from the relevant production lot.
- Identify the required ISO procedure and the buyer's laundering conditions.
- Condition the garments according to the applicable standard.
- Mark the reference points and measurement distance using the selected procedure.
- Record the initial measurements before laundering.
- Wash and dry the garments using the agreed ISO 6330 procedure or the specified customer method.
- Recondition the garments before final assessment.
- Measure the displacement and calculate the spirality percentage.
- Record the method, washing conditions, number of cycles and results.
How to Calculate Garment Spirality Percentage
For the relevant ISO 16322-3 measurement, spirality is expressed as the measured lateral displacement divided by the reference measurement distance, multiplied by 100.
Spirality (%) = (AA′ ÷ AB) × 100
- AA′: Measured lateral displacement after laundering.
- AB: Original marked reference distance.
Worked example
Assume the reference distance is 500 mm and the measured lateral displacement after the agreed laundering procedure is 12 mm.
Spirality = (12 ÷ 500) × 100
Spirality = 2.4%
This is an illustrative calculation. Actual marking, measurement and reporting must follow the selected standard procedure.
Example: Comparing Two Garments
| Garment | Reference distance | Displacement | Spirality |
|---|---|---|---|
| Sample A | 500 mm | 10 mm | 2.0% |
| Sample B | 500 mm | 15 mm | 3.0% |
Sample B shows greater displacement than Sample A. However, a pass or fail decision cannot be made without the buyer's agreed acceptance limit and the same test procedure for both samples.
How to Reduce Spirality in a Garment Factory
The most effective approach is to identify where the distortion first develops. Corrective action should begin at the earliest process stage where the problem can be confirmed.
| Process | What to check | Possible action |
|---|---|---|
| Yarn | Twist level, yarn construction and lot variation. | Review yarn specification and torque-related performance. |
| Knitting | Machine settings, yarn feeding and fabric skew. | Review machine condition and process consistency. |
| Wet processing | Fabric handling, drying and compaction. | Review process sequence and approved operating parameters. |
| Relaxation | Fabric condition before spreading. | Use an agreed relaxation and handling procedure. |
| Cutting | Lay alignment and panel orientation. | Check spreading accuracy and fabric geometry. |
| Sewing | Panel matching and construction consistency. | Review sewing method and panel handling. |
What Should the QC Team Check Before Bulk Cutting?
- Check the fabric for visible skew and distortion.
- Review fabric lot-to-lot consistency.
- Check whether the fabric has been relaxed according to the approved process.
- Confirm the correct fabric direction during spreading.
- Review the buyer's garment spirality requirement.
- Conduct a representative garment wash test before bulk approval.
- Keep the test method and washing conditions consistent when comparing samples.
Common Mistakes During Spirality Testing
- Measuring the garment before laundering and calling it a post-wash spirality result.
- Changing the washing method between samples.
- Comparing different ISO procedures as if their results were identical.
- Ignoring the initial condition of the garment.
- Using an inconsistent reference distance.
- Judging acceptance without checking the buyer's specification.
- Correcting sewing settings without investigating fabric and knitting causes.
For more textile quality background, read the Textile Mates guide to different types of defects in fabric and the scope of fabric testing.
Frequently Asked Questions
1. What is garment spirality?
Garment spirality is the lateral rotation or displacement between garment panels that can become visible after laundering.
2. Why does a T-shirt twist after washing?
Possible causes include yarn torque, fabric skew, knitting conditions, wet processing, insufficient relaxation and panel handling during cutting.
3. Which ISO standard measures garment spirality?
ISO 16322-3:2021 specifies procedures for measuring spirality after laundering in woven and knitted garments.
4. What is the difference between ISO 16322-2 and ISO 16322-3?
Part 2 addresses woven and knitted fabrics, while Part 3 addresses finished woven and knitted garments.
5. How is spirality percentage calculated?
It is calculated as lateral displacement divided by the marked reference distance, multiplied by 100, using the applicable measurement procedure.
6. Is fabric skewness the same as garment spirality?
No. Fabric skewness concerns fabric geometry, while garment spirality is the rotation measured on the garment after laundering.
7. Can spirality be corrected only in sewing?
Not always. The cause may originate in yarn, knitting, wet processing or cutting. Sewing should be investigated as one part of the complete process.
8. Is there one universal acceptable spirality percentage?
No. Acceptance depends on the product, buyer specification, test procedure and intended end use.
Conclusion
Garment spirality is a measurable quality issue that can affect fit, appearance and customer satisfaction. ISO 16322-3 provides a structured method for evaluating the condition after laundering. By checking yarn, knitting, wet processing, relaxation, cutting and sewing together, manufacturers can identify the source of twisting before it becomes a bulk-production problem.
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