4 Basic Types of Knitted Fabric Structures: Plain, Rib, Purl and Interlock

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Introduction

Knitted fabrics are produced by interlooping yarns to form a flexible fabric structure. Depending on the machine arrangement and needle movement, knitted fabrics can have different appearances, stretch properties, thicknesses and end uses.

1. Plain Knitted Fabric

Plain knitted fabric is commonly known as single jersey. It is produced using one needle bed or one needle system in weft knitting. The technical face shows face loops, while the reverse side shows the back of the loops.

  • Soft and flexible construction.
  • Good stretch across the fabric width.
  • Edges tend to curl.
  • Commonly used in T-shirts, tops and casual garments.

2. Rib Knitted Fabric

Rib fabric is produced by using two needle beds in weft knitting. Face and reverse wales alternate, creating a structure with good widthwise elasticity.

  • Good elastic recovery in the width direction.
  • Edges generally do not curl like single jersey.
  • Common constructions include 1x1 rib and 2x2 rib.
  • Used in cuffs, collars, neckbands and fitted garments.

3. Purl Knitted Fabric

Purl fabric contains alternating face and reverse loops in the course direction. Special needle arrangements are used to produce the structure. It has good lengthwise extensibility and is used in selected sweaters and knitted products.

4. Interlock Knitted Fabric

Interlock is a double-knit structure produced using two sets of needles. It is closely related to rib construction, but the arrangement creates a stable fabric with a smooth appearance on both sides.

  • Generally thicker than single jersey.
  • Smooth appearance on both sides.
  • Good dimensional stability when properly constructed.
  • Used in premium T-shirts, babywear and sportswear.

Comparison of Basic Knitted Structures

StructureConstructionMain CharacteristicCommon Use
Plain / Single JerseyOne needle bedWidthwise stretch, edge curlingT-shirts
RibTwo needle bedsGood widthwise elasticityCuffs and collars
PurlSpecial needle arrangementGood lengthwise extensibilitySelected knitwear
InterlockTwo intermeshing needle systemsStable double-knit structurePremium knitwear

For machine-related information, see types of knitting machines. You may also find our guide to common knitted fabric faults and remedies useful.

Conclusion

Plain, rib, purl and interlock are important basic knitted structures. Understanding their construction helps textile professionals select suitable fabrics for garments and other textile products.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the most common knitted fabric?

Single jersey is one of the most widely used knitted structures, particularly for T-shirts.

Which knitted structure is commonly used for cuffs?

Rib fabric is commonly used for cuffs, collars and neckbands because of its elasticity.

What is the difference between single jersey and interlock?

Single jersey is a single-knit structure, while interlock is a double-knit structure with a different loop arrangement.

Does rib fabric curl at the edges?

Rib fabric generally does not show the same edge curling behaviour as single jersey.

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